#3 AWEAR Topic: Jeans for Dissent— How Jeans Evolved with Battles for Gender Equality
It Is Not Just About Rebellion
Long before jeans acted as a visual indicator of women’s rights, Marie Susie, a settler woman, already requested to get rid of the ban of wearing trousers (likely jeans) in an 1871’s court. However, it was not until jeans made their big-screen debut in Marlon Brando’s The Wild One (1953) and James Dean’s Rebel Without A Cause (1954), did the public start to perceive them as an embodiment of the rebellion. What followed was an anti-fashion wave that brought forth a series of social transformations, including the suffrage movement and the Civil Rights movement. African-American women began to put on jeans and leave out bras to side with the working class to address the political systems and societal “norms” that oppressed them.
In no time, jeans became the most coveted item as they represented progressive ideals that women were pursuing at the time — forging new identities, challenging traditional gender expectations, and demanding sexual liberation. What women sought was an opportunity to be placed on the same level of consideration as men. Through jeans, especially jeans in different styles and sizes, women highlighted the notion that it’s not merely about expressing themselves but about having the power to make their own decisions.
Transformation of Jeans In a New Era
As the fight for equal rights continued into the 90s, some feminist pioneers could no longer be satisfied by only wearing the same jeans as men. Besides embracing gender-neutral fashion, these women also redefined some traditionally “girly” elements during what was later known as the Riot Grrrl movement. Often associated with third-wave feminism, the Riot Grrrl movement fused feminism, punk music, and politics. As the tone-setters of this movement, the female punk groups, such as Bikini Kill and Bratmobile, had a characteristic look of ripped jeans with heart motifs and the color pink. Through mixing the unisex staples and the “girly” details, the musicians released the signal that female elements could have a tough meaning.
With the development of the economy and the rising awareness of equal rights, jeans have become a staple in every woman’s wardrobe. However, there are still some caveats between females and men’s jeans that can be easily overlooked. According to a study released in August 2018 by The Pudding, the pockets in women’s jeans are 48% shorter and 6.5% narrower than men’s pockets on average. Unlike the men’s pockets that emphasize the function, the journalist engineer Jan Diehm pointed out that “How women look in jeans seems to be more important than what they can carry in them.”
As another example, the boyfriend style jeans as a popular jeans style has been criticized for the name and its problematic connotation. The name, “boyfriend style”, implies that a woman has a boyfriend. Needless to say that a pair of jeans is unnecessary to be linked to a relationship, for the lesbian and non-binary groups, the name could be offensive when they are just looking for a pair of jeans in a loose style. Also, there’s no “girlfriend style” jeans for men. Unlike women who received accolades and acceptance for wearing men’s garments, society still views men with stigma and judgments if they do not act or dress manly. The question left for us today is not only about how to empower women and minority groups but also to eliminate double standards for men and women.
Op-ed
Jessie
- Fashion: If going back to about five years ago, only low waist skinny jeans could be found in my closet. I loved how skinny jeans can make me look more appealing and fashionable, even though they are not that comfortable, and I had to control my weight strictly to fit in those jeans. But now, fashion for me is not just for looking great, but also being comfortable and cozy. I have more high waist loose style jeans for now and enjoy both styles of jeans.
- Insights: The purpose of feminism movements was never to be rebellious. Through those activities that were unacceptable within the society in different eras, women have been fighting for equal rights. However, fighting for rights is not equal to obtaining privilege. Even though our systems, cultures, and political news show that men are still the privileged group, gender equality advocacy should not ignore any double standards for male and female.
Viola
- Fashion: It fascinates me to think about how many different kinds of jeans I encounter on a daily basis. If I were to pick a favorite, then it would have to be the skinny jeans. However, the trick is to know your body type, whether it’s pear-shaped, tall, column, curvy or any others. Once you understand your shape, then you will easily find a style that flatters your look.
- Insights: We are not trying to preach that jeans are typical feminist garments because they symbolized masculinity and negated femininity. The takeaway here is not jeans ≠ anti-feminine, and thus = feminism. The societal shift in the 1960s taught us that the key is to break this notion that there was only one acceptable way for women to dress. I think more people start to see that a feminist simply means that she can choose whatever she pleases.
References:
“Riot Grrrl” Wikipedia: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Riot_grrrl
The Evolution of Feminist Style: https://www.crfashionbook.com/culture/a22736609/feminist-style-evolution-history/
The Problem With Your Boyfriend Jeans Is More Insidious Than You Think: https://www.bustle.com/p/the-problem-with-your-boyfriend-jeans-is-more-insidious-than-you-think-7523157
Boyfriend Jeans: https://medium.com/gender-theory/boyfriend-jeans-d6a148d095e8
Someone clever once said Women were not allowed pockets: https://pudding.cool/2018/08/pockets/
Throwback Thursday: 5 Moments in Denim History that Symbolized Progress： https://www.levistrauss.com/2014/10/16/5-moments-in-denim-history/
The Long History of Jeans In Women’s Protest:https://psmag.com/social-justice/history-jeans-womens-protest
Fashion Is Dissent — How Style Played a Role in Equality Movements: https://www.whowhatwear.com/suffrage-movement-fashion
