The Witness and Result of Society Movements and Innovation
Trench coat, though got the name from its adaptation in the trenches of the First World War, has been developed for almost 100 years before the war. The origin of the trench coat was a form of rubberized cotton. Due to its weatherproof feature, the fabric was popular for both military and civilian use. However, these styles of coats still have some flaws — the fabric was not breathable and had an unpleasant smell. Since then, designers and fabric manufacturers have developed the material over the years to overcome these shortcomings, and the two most well-known clothiers are John Emary (Aquascutum) and Thomas Burberry. John Emary developed the fabric to be less smelly and more breathable, while Burberry invented a breathable waterproof twill called gabardine that made its clothing useful for military uniforms.
Thanks to the innovative design and revolutionary fabric, the trench coat has continued to grow in popularity and reputation. It was still a classic officers’ garment during the Second World War. However, Hollywood romanticized the trench coat and made it to be a piece of fashion. Worn by the cast in famous films, such as Humphrey Bogart in Casablanca, Audrey Hepburn in Breakfast at Tiffany’s, Marlene Dietrich in A Foreign Affair, Meryl Streep in Kramer vs. Kramer, the trench coat became the iconic garment synonymous with intrepid men and smart women. Nowadays, the innovation of the trench coat continues, but the controversy around it also emerged.
Trench Coats ≠Shooters
Designers and Hollywood directors might never imagine that one day the trench coat would be linked to school shooters. In 1999, many people called for a trench ban in schools after the shootings at Columbia High School in Colorado. It is because the two shooters were part of what was called the “trench coat mafia” that the students who wore the garment were marked as high-risk. This type of rhetoric around the trench coat neglected the criminal motivation but attached an unfair stigma to an item of clothing and to people who wear the garment.
However, it seems that things don’t change a lot after almost two decades. In 2018, a similar type of rhetoric around school shootings and trench coats appeared again after the shooting at Santa Fe High School in Texas. A radio host — Hugh Hewitt — tried to give teachers advice about warning signs in students’ clothing on his radio show, claiming that trench coat is a way to filter out suspects. Needless to say that the statement and the logic behind it are untenable. It is even more dangerous than we can imagine. Stigmatizing a garment can’t stop a tragedy but may rather distract our attention to fix the problems.
Op-ed
Jessie
- Fashion: When I was a freshman, I desired to be independent and be treated as an adult. So, I always chose the clothes that make me look mature, and the trench coat was one of my first choices. When wearing a trench coat, I felt to be a direct, no-nonsense, and modern woman. Now, I have entered the workplace and no longer depend on the clothes to gain self-confidence; the trench coat is still a must-have in my closet for its practicality and stylish look.
- Insights: There’s no doubt that people tend to link some garments with specific occupations. For example, black suits may be linked to lawyers or governors. It is not only because there are some dress codes for specific workplaces, but also because people may need to rely on the appearance to show their professionality. However, clothing should not be a judging criterion, nor as an excuse for systematic problems. It is easy to ban a garment, but a clothing ban cannot stop hate and crimes.
References
Vogue encyclopaedia: The history of the trench coat https://www.vogue.fr/fashion/article/vogue-encyclopaedia-the-history-of-the-trench-coat
History Of The Trench Coat: Military Necessity To Fashion Accessory https://www.contrado.co.uk/blog/history-of-the-trench-coat/
The Classy Rise of the Trench Coat https://www.smithsonianmag.com/history/trench-coat-made-its-mark-world-war-i-180955397/
Radio Host Hugh Hewitt Proposed a Trench Coat Ban in Response to Santa Fe High School Shooting https://www.teenvogue.com/story/hugh-hewitt-proposed-trench-coat-ban-in-response-to-santa-fe-high-school-shooting
Dress Codes After Columbine https://www.theatlantic.com/notes/2016/04/dress-codes-after-columbine/477375/
